May 2025: 30 Days of Tips from a Fashion Production Manager

Author

Kerri Bridgman

Date

May 1, 2025

This page will be updated each morning as the month goes on! Save for more tips or follow along on Threads!

Day 1: From Sketch to Spec - Production doesn’t start at the factory. It starts the moment a designer says, “Can you make this?”

Before anything gets made, that sketch needs to become a technical blueprint-with specifications, fabric notes, color standards and fit intent. Less guessing = fewer delays = better samples. Day 2: Tech Pack Basics - You can’t move forward without two things:

📌 a sketch

📌 a tech pack No matter how good the idea is, if it’s not clear on paper, the sample process, and by extension the production process, stalls. A tech pack tells your factory exactly what to make-fabric, fit, details, labels, all of it. It’s not extra, it’s essential.

Day 3: Material Sourcing Starts Now - Before you order swatches or color samples, be clear on what you’re looking for. That means knowing: – What type of material you desire (fiber, weight, structure) – Where it comes from (know the mill or tannery) – How it’s made (Woven? Knit? Vegetable-tanned?) – And bringing a reference: a Pantone chip, color swatch, or inspo photo.

Suppliers need direction. And you need to understand the beginning of your supply chain before anything gets made.

Pro tip: Always keep a healthy amount of your original swatch for reference-you’re going to need it for approvals (this will also come in handy seasons down the line when you want to go back to the original color)

Day 4: Understanding Lead Times - Fabric, trims, hardware-they all move on different timelines. Your suppliers also all move on their own timelines, understand how the work individually. Your main fabric might take 4–8 weeks. Trims can add another 2–3. Custom hardware? Try 6–12 weeks depending on the finish, sometimes longer if you have not yet approved the finish color. And that’s before production even starts. If one element’s late, your whole calendar shifts.

Development isn’t just about the design, it’s about timing every moving piece.

Day 5: Choosing Between Leather Options - Real, vegan, or bonded leather isn’t just about the look. It affects your sourcing, cost, lead times, and even your factory choices-double check your factory has the capabilities for your final option. 📌 Real leather: beautiful, but color varies batch to batch.

📌 Vegan: consistent and scalable, but may contain plastic.

📌 Bonded: budget-friendly, but less durable and harder to work with.

Each one handles differently in sewing, cutting, and finishing. Know your product, and your values before choosing.

Day 6: Fabric Testing 101 - Before you fall in love with a fabric-test it.

📏 Shrink it. Stretch it.

🧼 Wash it. Dry it.

🧪 Rub it (crocking-there is a very specific machine that will show you how well your fabric actually really stands up).

👐 And always check the hand feel-Do you want to wear this? Will your customer actually wear this?

Even if you’ve used the fabric before, test it again. Mills change. Dye lots shift-the color you're using this season may very well feel different than last seasons. What worked last season might perform totally differently this time.

✨ Bonus tip: wear test your new materials. Nothing beats real-life use for spotting problems before production. Try wearing it at least 30 times before putting it into production-you never know what issues may arise that the testing company could not replicate.

Day 7: Requesting Material Swatches

Swatches aren’t just samples—they’re your first quality check & first real color check. When reaching out, be specific:

📌 Fabric type + weight

📌 Color reference (Pantone, inspo photo, etc.)

📌 End use (is it for swim? lining? structured outerwear? athleisure?)

The best way to know what you're receiving? Work through people who already have relationships. Your production team, sourcing agent, or friends in the industry likely know who delivers—and who disappears. Trust runs deep in this industry. Use warm intros whenever you can. If you cannot find what you're looking for, go to trade shows throughout the year.

Day 8: Sample Yardage & MOQ Before you order sample fabric or leather, ask the right questions: 📌 What’s the minimum yardage for samples?

📌What’s the MOQ for bulk (and how does pricing change)?

📌Is this fabric in-stock, or made-to-order?

📌 Will they dye to match your color, or are you choosing from existing dye lots?

📌 What’s the lead time, and how long will shipping to your factory take?

📌Are there any fees or minimums to ship sample yardage?

Sample fabric often costs more per yard-and that’s normal. But surprises happen when you don’t ask up front. Or plan for a cost variation.

Day 9: Notions & Trims

Zippers, buttons, labels—tiny details that can delay entire timelines. Before you move forward, ask:

🏭 Can your factory source them, or will you?

✅ If they source, do you still need to approve before sampling?

💰 Are any of these items impacted by current tariffs or import fees?

📈 How do costs change based on material or country of origin?

Notions often feel like an afterthought—but they can create real delays if you’re not ahead of them. Lock them in early. Approve them quickly. Don’t let a zipper hold up your entire season.

Day 10: Creating the First Prototype

Your first prototype is where your idea becomes real. But it’s only as good as your prep. 📋 A clear tech pack, approved materials (including bonding/interfacing if needed), and detailed construction notes all matter before you ask a factory to cut or put anything together. This isn’t a sample you sell—it’s the one you review. Expect loose threads, visible stitch lines, and a raw finish. Or even to receive the sample in pieces. 🪡

Schedule a technical review meeting to walk through every detail. This is where you flag fit issues, construction concerns, or material changes before you waste time (and money) on more samples.

Day 11: MOQ Negotiation Tips

Negotiation is part of the process—but it has to go both ways. You don’t want to take too much from them. And you shouldn’t give up too much on your side either. Here’s the middle ground:

⏰ Be clear on your volume and timeline

❓Ask if there’s a surcharge for lower MOQs (and why)

✂️ Understand what ethical labor and quality actually cost

📊 Build long-term trust—it leads to flexibility later

You want partners who are fair, transparent, and ethical. That comes with a price-and it’s worth it.

Day 12: Fit Session Workflow

A fit session isn’t just about trying something on, it’s your chance to build a better product. To see your design come to life, and depending on the shipping schedule see your line come to life. Start with a consistent fit model: same size, same body—so you’re comparing changes accurately. Once that base size is approved, you’ll test again at a secondary size to check grading and proportion.

Be specific, organized, and quick with productive feedback.

The approved fit sample goes back to the factory as the standard. This version becomes the reference point for everything that follows.

Day 13: Pattern Corrections

Pattern issues? That doesn’t mean start from scratch. But it does mean it's time to get very clear on what needs to change. Don’t throw vague edits at the factory. They’re not going to guess what you want—nor should they. It is your responsibility, as well as theirs, to be very transparent. If you’re requesting revisions, you need to provide:

📌 A corrected tech pack

📌 A marked-up sample

📌 Or both (preferably both)

Day 14: Sample Making Costs

Sample costs can feel high - but here’s why:

You’re not just paying for fabric and labor.

You’re paying for experience and knowledge

The factory is using their skill to bring your idea to life. Your knowledge? That should already be in the tech pack, if something was miscommunicated act now. Every unclear detail = more time, more back-and-forth, more cost. The cleaner your direction, the smoother (and less expensive) the process.

Day 15: Factory Capabilities

Not every factory can make every product, and that’s okay.

It's actually better this way. Your job is to match your product to their strengths.

Swimwear, denim, outerwear, leather goods—each requires different machinery, skill sets, and timelines. Know when to:

👀 Ask questions

🆘 Ask for help

🔄 Countersource if needed

And if it’s not working? Don’t wait too long to switch. The wrong partner can slow your whole business down.

Day 16: Small Batch vs. Large Scale

At this stage, you’ve got decisions to make and scale is one of them. Small batch means:

✔️ Lower upfront investment

✔️ Flexibility to tweak styles

✔️ Less waste = more sustainable

But… higher cost per unit and limited shipping options. You're looking at DHL, Fedex and local carriers.

Day 17: Inspection & QA Protocols

Even if you love your factory do not skip quality checks.

This isn’t micromanaging—it’s protecting your line, your brand, and your reputation. Trusted vendors still make mistakes. It’s your job to catch them, check your grading scale & ensure your tech packs match.

Day 18: Sustainability from Day one

Sustainability doesn’t start when your customers checkout. It starts with the decisions you make before you think about a PO. ❓What is the fabric made of?

❓Where has it come from?

❓What was it dyed with?

❓Have you done you market research to not over produce?

❓How much are you producing?

❓Can your trims, packaging, or tags be reused, recycled, or composted?

❓Have you included wash instructions to prolong the life of the garment?

The full lifecycle of your product begins the moment you source. Your values show up in every choice - even behind the scenes.

📦 Bonus tip: Ask your factory what sustainable practices they’re already using. You might be surprised. One of my favorite factories is run on solar power and gives back 10% of what they make to a women & children's organization in Bali.

Day 19: Production Planning Tools

Production doesn’t run on memory, it runs on systems. Whether you're working by yourself or looking to scaling, tools like:

🧠 Notion (for tracking development & production)

🎨 Illustrator (for visuals & updates)

📱 WhatsApp (for real-time factory & supplier communications) …help keep everyone on the same page. Keeping your systems organized and up to date prevents mistakes later.

Bigger brands use systems like BlueCherry or build custom tools to integrate their entire supply chain. But in the beginning? Pick what’s manageable without losing sight of your end goal. Staying organized = staying on track.

Day 20: Emailing Suppliers & Factories

Vendors move fast if you give them what they need. When reaching out, include:

📌 A short intro (who you are + what you’re producing - if they do not know you already)

📌 Tech pack or sketches (preferably in the same PDF)

📌 Quantity, fabric type, and timeline

📌 Questions in a bulleted list

📌 Clear subject line (e.g. “Brand Name - Swimwear Sample Request - April 2025”)

Bonus tip: Anticipate what they’ll ask next (like sizing, delivery address, packaging). The more you include up front, the less back-and-forth later. Be clear. Be specific. And double check your attachments.

Day 21: Pre-Production Checklist

Before production starts, double check everything. And I truly mean everything. Once you approve it, changes = delays and costs that have not been accounted for. Here’s what should be locked in:

✅ Final fabric (no last-minute switches)

✅ Approved colorways (with lab dips)

✅ Hem & finish specs (length, stitching, tension)

✅ Labels, hangtags, trims

✅ PO signed and factory ship date confirmed

Day 22: Approval Sample (PP)

A PP (pre-production) sample is the final checkpoint before your bulk order runs. It should reflect exactly what you’ve approved - fit, fabric, color, trims, stitching, labels… everything. If it’s off and you don’t catch it? That’s on you. Without a PP sample, you’re throwing your production into the wind and hoping for the best.

Review it. Compare it to your tech pack and fit notes. Send it back if it's not correct. Sign off only when it’s right.

Day 23: Landed Cost vs. Margin

It’s not just what your product costs, it’s what it costs to land it. Your landed cost includes:

…and any other costs tied to getting your goods in hand. Keep in mind every country's tariffs and fees are different if you are shipping to multiple places.

With tariffs shifting right now, especially on goods from certain countries, you need to double-check:

– HTS codes

– Country of origin

– Freight methods If you don’t know your landed cost, your margin isn’t real. Buyers, merchandisers, and designers alike—this is where your profit lives or dies.

Retail was just the beginning — follow along as the path expands to production and tech. 🪡