Kerri BridgmanIf you approve the wrong sample, you approve the wrong production.
This is not a scare tactic, a fact. It’s one of the most expensive lessons any person in the fashion industry can learn.
When you work with factories (especially overseas), approvals aren’t paperwork. They’re your quality control, your last chance to stop mistakes before they’re multiplied by the thousands. Most designers treat every sample the same and miss what truly matters. It’s why I’m breaking down the three approval stages you need to care about and exactly what to look for at each one.
The flow (quick)
Fit Sample → PP Sample (Pre-Production) → TOP Sample (Top of Production)
Each stage builds on the last. Skip one, approve carelessly, and small problems compound into huge ones.
Stage 1 — Fit Sample: the foundation
What it is: your first physical prototype, usually in muslin or test fabric. The factory is proving they can construct the garment, they are not matching final fabric yet.
What you’re approving:
- Fit & grading: do measurements match the spec across sizes?
- Construction: seams, stitching, the balance inside and out.
- Design placement: pockets, collars, closures…. are they where the tech pack says?
Common mistakes: rushing because you’re excited. If you approve wrong construction now, you’re locked into it.
Checklist:
- Compare every measurement to your tech pack
- Fit on a model in your target size
- Inspect inside construction, not just the look
- Call out pattern or block changes clearly
Red flags: unauthorized factory changes, measurements outside tolerance, construction shortcuts.
Don’t move to PP until the fit sample is truly right.
Stage 2 — PP Sample: approve the production framework
What it is: the sample made in your final fabric, with final trims and thread. This is the “this is what we’ll make hundreds or thousands of” sample.
What you’re approving:
- Fabric performance: drape, stretch, recovery
- Color accuracy: fabric, trims, thread matching your standards
- Trim function: zippers, buttons, snaps actually work
- Finishing: hems, topstitching, lining behavior
Why this matters: approving PP means you’ve agreed to these materials and methods. If it fails, your bulk will too.
What to test:
- Wear test for a few hours, or a couple of days if it’s a new fabric
- Wash test per care label
- Functional checks repeated (zips, snaps, closures)
- Side-by-side with the approved fit sample
Questions to ask:
- Would I confidently sell this to a customer?
- Does this match my promised quality?
- If I ordered 1,000 or more, would I be proud to ship them?
If the answer is “no” or “maybe,” request revisions. This is your last real chance before cutting bulk.
Stage 3 — TOP Sample: the final safety check
What it is: one of the first pieces of the actual production run. It confirms the factory executes correctly at scale.
What you’re verifying:
- Consistency with your approved PP
- Production quality when sewing in bulk
- Fabric batch accuracy (color/hand)
Why factories send TOP: they want your sign-off that the run matches the approved sample before they complete production.
Common mistakes: treating TOP like a formality. That’s where batch color shifts, substitutions, or dropping standards hide.
What to check carefully:
- Place TOP next to your PP in the same light
- Check color, thread, and trim matches
- Confirm construction quality hasn’t slipped
If something’s different, ask: “Why is the fabric lighter?” “Why is the stitch density different?” Before the factory continues confirm with them that any potential changes made in this stage will be implemented throughout the supply chain.
Side-by-side comparison is non-negotiable
Never rely on memory. Put PP and TOP together in the same lighting and inspect. If you see differences, document them and ask for corrections immediately.
Quick Approval / Revision Templates
Approve:
“We approve the [Fit/PP/TOP] Sample for [style name/number] with the following notes:
– [minor observations that don’t require changes]
Please proceed to [next stage/bulk production].
Approved on [date].”
Request revisions:
“We cannot approve the [Fit/PP/TOP] Sample for [style name/number]. Required revisions:
- [Specific issue with measurement/photo reference]
- [Specific issue with construction/photo reference]
Please submit revised sample by [date].”
Be specific. “Fit is off” isn’t helpful. “Bust measurement is 2 in. larger than spec” is actionable.
When skipping stages breaks everything
- Skip Fit: you have no proof they can construct the design. Big gamble.
- Skip PP: you don’t know how your actual fabric behaves — expect surprises.
- Skip TOP: you lose the final check for batch or scale issues.
The cost math (short)
Approving a faulty PP and shipping 1,000 bad units is expensive: production + shipping + duties + remaking or liquidating. One careful rejection and a couple hundred dollars in rework is often far cheaper than an avoidable disaster. Or worst case scenario — your orders are shipped to customers and retailers who return the product for issues you did not catch in sampling.
Simple checklists you can copy into any system (or use this article):
Fit Sample
PP Sample
TOP Sample
Final note
Approvals are your control point. They’re where you protect your brand, your customers, and your margins. Take each sample seriously, ask specific questions, and don’t be afraid to pause production for a revision. Once you write “Approved,” you’re committing all of your production units being made exactly that way, make it count.
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