Kerri BridgmanFactories don't ghost, they react to clarity or lack there of…
You send your design to three factories. One quotes in 48 hours. Another asks a dozen follow-up questions. The third never responds. Same design, three wildly different reactions. The difference isn't the factory. It's the information you sent.
Most independent designers think factories are being difficult when they don't respond quickly. The reality? Factories quote faster with clear information. They're not playing hard to get, they're waiting for the details they need to give you an accurate number.
Here's what factories actually need before they can quote your design, and why each piece matters for your fashion production timeline.
1. Technical Specifications (Not Just Pretty Sketches)
Your design sketch shows the aesthetic. Tech specs show the work.
Factories need to know exactly what they're building. That means measurements, construction details, and material specifications written out clearly. A flat sketch with annotations beats a beautiful illustration every time when it comes to getting quotes.
What to include:
- Detailed notes of material placement if using multiple materials/colors for both body and trim
- Finished garment measurements for each size
- Seam allowances and construction methods (French seam vs. overlocked, topstitching details)
- Placement of closures (zippers, buttons, snaps) with exact measurements
- Any special finishes (stone washing, enzyme treatment, embroidery)
Think of it this way: a factory is pricing labor hours and material waste. Vague specs mean they have to guess, and guessing means padding the quote to cover their risk. Clear specs mean competitive pricing because they know exactly what you need.
2. Material Details with Realistic Sourcing Context
"Cotton fabric" isn't enough information. Neither is "silk."
Factories need to know what material you want, where it's coming from, and who's responsible for sourcing it. This directly impacts their quote because material costs and lead times vary dramatically.
Be specific about:
- Fabric composition and weight (e.g., "100% organic cotton jersey, 180 GSM")
- Color and finish requirements (including Pantone codes if you have them)
- Whether you're supplying the fabric or the factory is sourcing it. Keep in mind some factories will not produce with fabric that they have not sourced.
- If factory-sourced: your budget range per meter/yard
- Trim and notion details (metal vs. plastic zippers, button material and size)
Here's what most independent designers miss: factories have relationships with specific suppliers. If you specify a fabric they don't regularly source, they might not quote at all rather than risk a complicated order for a new client. If you're flexible on materials, say so it often leads to better pricing and faster turnarounds.
3. Production Quantity and Timeline Expectations
Volume determines process, which determines price.
A factory set up for runs of 500+ units prices differently than one equipped for 50-piece orders. Neither is "better". They're just optimized for different production scales. When you don't specify quantity upfront, factories can't tell if your project fits their setup.
Include in your initial request:
- Minimum order quantity you're planning (be realistic, not aspirational)
- Ideal delivery date and how firm it is
- Whether this is a one-time order or the start of an ongoing relationship
- Your flexibility on timing if it affects pricing
Timeline matters as much as quantity. Rush orders cost more because they disrupt the factory's production schedule. If you have flexibility, you have negotiating power. A factory might quote 30% lower for a 12-week lead time versus 6 weeks for the exact same garment.
The Real Cost of Unclear Information
Every time a factory has to email back for clarification, your quote gets delayed by days. Multiply that by the three or five factories you're reaching out to, and suddenly weeks have passed with nothing to show for it.
Worse, some factories simply won't respond to unclear requests. It's not personal, they're running businesses and can't spend 30 minutes drafting questions for a project that might not be serious. When independent designers complain about factories "ghosting," it's usually because the initial inquiry didn't give the factory enough information to work with.
How to Package Your Information
Put everything in one clear document. A PDF works better than a long email chain.
Include:
- Design sketches or tech packs with all measurements labeled
- Material specifications with swatches or reference photos if possible
- Your target quantity and timeline
- Your contact information and preferred communication method
Name your file something useful like "YourBrand_StyleName_TechPack_Nov2025.pdf" instead of "design_final_v3.pdf."
The Factory's Perspective
Factories aren't trying to make your life difficult. They're trying to run efficient operations with thin margins. Every quote takes time. Someone has to review your specs, calculate material needs, estimate labor hours, and account for potential complications.
When you provide complete information upfront, you're showing respect for their process. You're also signaling that you're a professional who understands fashion production. That matters when factories are deciding which inquiries to prioritize.
Clear communication doesn't just speed up quotes. It starts your factory relationship on solid footing, which matters for everything that comes after, from sampling to production to dealing with inevitable issues that arise.
Start with Clarity, End with Quotes
The independent designers who receive the fastest, most competitive quotes are not the ones with the biggest names or the largest orders. They're the ones who make it easy for factories to say yes.
Before you send your next inquiry, ask yourself: if you received this information, could you price the project without asking follow-up questions? If the answer is no, you're not ready to send it yet.
Factories don't ghost. They react to clarity. Give them what they need, and watch your inbox fill with actual numbers instead of silence.
Building your fashion production process? The details you include in your first factory contact often determine whether you get quoted at all. Independent designers who master clear communication get better pricing, faster turnarounds, and stronger factory relationships.
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